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Espresso, Vinyl, and Serotonin: A Fort Worth Creative’s Japan
“How was Japan?”
It was transformative.
For years, Japan has been whispering my name. Last year, as I approached my 40th birthday, it began to speak to me in its outside voice: “Get here! I’ve got something for you.”
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
Well, nudge me no longer, Japan. My wife and I booked the flight from DFW to touch grass in Tokyo. Perhaps I had a vague idea of what Japan wanted me to see and where it wanted me to go, but I had no idea of what it would make me feel. I’ve since taken the time to process the trip and its effects on me, and I’m left with a palpable peace that I’ve yet to feel anywhere else in the world. I can’t promise it’ll do the same for you, but I can tell you a few of the components that shaped my experience and left an impression that can only be truly realized by spending time in The Land of the Rising Sun.
Keep in mind, your trip to Japan will undoubtedly be different than mine. But if you have not been, I can assure you that it will be decidedly distinct. If you’ve ever had a fascination with any aspect of Japanese culture, I implore you to experience its richness first-hand.
If slow coffee shop hangs, vintage shopping, and analog music are not your vibe, my itinerary may not scratch your travel itch, but if so, it will be great jumping off points for planning perfect days in Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll know that I love the ritualistic nature of an espresso to start the day. And I found the perfect indoor/outdoor coffee shop in Tokyo for doing just that. Paddler’s Coffee is tucked away in the charming Nishihara neighborhood. In addition to being a perfect perch for your caffeine dreams, they also regularly host pop-ups in a small auxiliary space right as you enter the café. When we were there, we had the pleasure of meeting and viewing the works of Portland-based, neon light designer, Perry Pfister. Expect a line, but it typically moves quickly and there is seating both inside and within the patio garden.
Tsutaya Books, also known as T-Site, is in the heart of Daikanyama, the “Brooklyn of Tokyo.” Architecturally, you may walk by and mistake it for a museum. Imagine taking a Barnes & Noble and blowing it up – the only thing left is immaculate vibes and the coolest kids in Daikanyama hanging inside and outside. Don’t miss the upstairs; there’s a small cafe and a large seating area that is surrounded by archival books and magazines. There’s also a small-yet-meticulously-curated vinyl record store upstairs where I came across a Japanese pressing of Leon Bridges’ Gold Diggers Sound album. Regrettably, I didn’t pick up a copy, which, looking back, was a mistake. If you’re looking for a central location to be surrounded by your choice of stylish boutiques, trendy eateries, and epic people watching, T-Site is at the epicenter of Tokyo Cool.
Listening bars, where the acoustic experience comes first and libations are a close second, are all over Tokyo. Hidden away on a quiet street near the Meguro River is an ultra-sexy vinyl bar called Epulor. The warm lighting and calm flow of both locals and audio-enthusiast foreigners make for a perfect pre- or post-dinner landing. They have an extensive natural wine selection, but I opted for a gin and tonic that I ordered for its simplicity but was pleasantly delighted by its herbal complexity. (That G&T experience alone prompted an update to the Bar Dryce menu back at home.) The bartender/sound selector dropped the needle on Bon Iver’s 22, A Million record, and I was sonically transported.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
You know that friend whose recommendations you listen to because they never steer you wrong and listening to their suggestions always lands you in a great situation? That’s my buddy Mitch Foster who owns ESP Hi-Fi, a listening bar in Denver. He directed me to check out Swing, a jazz café in Shibuya that inspired much of the sound set up at his bar in Colorado. It’s a tiny room that sits on the fourth floor of a non-descript building on a side street not far from the bright lights of Shibuya. I would never have stumbled across this joint without being tipped off by Mitch. It was a peak IYKYK moment. Sip a highball and close your eyes, and you’re transported to an intimate performance in Thelonius Monk’s living room. From there, we transitioned to Studio Mule, another listening bar just one floor below Swing in the same building but with a completely different vibe. For my fellow natural wine connoisseurs, this is your haven. There’s no menu, just a knowledgeable host/bartender/DJ keeping everyone’s wine glass full and the vibes alive.
Let’s be real, it’d be blasphemous to not include a sushi and sake experience to this list. And trust me when I tell you that that will not be hard for you to find on your own anywhere in Tokyo. But one concept that I was not expecting was stand-up sushi. No, it’s not a comedy routine. It’s a sushi restaurant with no seats. Instead of sitting to dine, you stand on your own two feet and eat premium sushi rolls while sipping sake. And come to find out, they’re fairly common throughout the city. Eat on your feet for once. I’d highly recommend Standing Sushi Bar Nemuro Hanamaru, located in the basement of Marunouchi Oazo, a short walk from Tokyo Station.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morri
Hotel Dryce would very likely not exist if it weren’t for my reimagining of what a hotel could be. That reimagining was born the first time I stepped into the Ace Hotel in New York City several years ago. And so, there was no chance we weren’t going to be staying at the Ace Hotel on the Kyoto leg of our trip. Much like the inspiration that their other locations have been for me, it did not disappoint. The building itself is a perfectly executed blend of both modern and traditional Japanese architectural elements that seamlessly integrate into a walkable neighborhood. The hotel lobby doubles as a workspace for locals. The rooms were well-appointed and even included a record player with some classic Japanese vinyls to set the mood before a night out in Kyoto. Don’t skip Piopiko, the Mexican food restaurant upstairs. I can fully endorse their take on tacos and mezcal margaritas. And as a bonus, the Ace is a perfect location for walkability in Kyoto.
Over the course of our 10 days in Japan we visited 22 coffee shops! My wife, Katherine, who owns Cherry Coffee and Novel Coffee Roasters here in Fort Worth, was in absolute heaven. At one point, she was even brought to tears of joy. And I don’t want to overstate this, but in Kyoto, I may have found the holy grail of coffee shop experiences: three coffee shops, all within walking distance of each other with three very distinctly different vibes that you can hop to all in one morning or afternoon.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
Wife & Husband: If a quick Frappuccino is what you’re looking for, this is not the place for you. They do two things here: pour over coffee and toast. I had the single best piece of toast I’ve ever had in my life here. I never knew toast could be so memorable. The space is objectively intimate. Maybe even romantic. The wife/husband/daughter team that run the shop maneuver around the small kitchen with a graceful choreography that alone, is a masterpiece to watch. Pro tip: Make a reservation ahead of time.
Tasuku Coffee: This little DIY, makeshift shack of a coffee shop is run by Tasuku, who may just be the coolest cat in Kyoto. It’s on the same block as Wife & Husband but feels worlds apart.
Kitaoji Roastery Lab: Kitaoji is rather non-descript from the outside, but once you enter, you’ll feel very much transported into a coffee laboratory. The barista and head roaster wore lab coats. Not only did they serve up premium cups of coffee, but they also scientifically dialed in a coffee experience that we will never forget.
The vintage shopping in Kyoto is supreme! Regardless of whether you’re looking for menswear, women’s clothing, designer dresses, work wear, or anything in between, you can find it in Kyoto. Compared to some of my favorite vintage stores in the States, prices are very reasonable. Kinji, JAM, and Wa-Store are just a few that I’d recommend, but if you’re in Kyoto’s Nakagyo Ward, you’ll find dozens of well-appointed vintages shops to choose from. Second-hand shopping in Japan is simply next level. Pro-tip: Be sure to budget for buying additional luggage for your new duds. Your US dollars will take your shopping haul a little further against the currently struggling yen.
From the exterior, you can tell by the colorful round-stained glass windows that something spiritual is happening inside of Hachi Record Shop and Bar. Inside, you’ll find an itty-bitty bar with a big, big sound. Up a steep set of stairs lies a record store large enough (maybe) for two to three people to browse at a time. It was there that I happened upon a vinyl copy of one of Fort Worth’s own Ornette Coleman from 1962 – a little piece of Funky Town in Kyoto. I was not coming home without that.
The absolute most memorable meal we had in Kyoto was at Maker, a Japanese take on farm-to-table set in the middle of the city. I had a feeling walking in when I heard SWV’s “Rain” playing on their sound system that this experience was about to hit my soul. You will definitely need to make a reservation ahead of time. This tiny kitchen and one communal table made for a magical night that I will never forget. The menu is ever changing with the seasons for the freshest ingredients. This place was an absolute vibe from beginning to end.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
We only went to Osaka for a quick day trip from Kyoto. The two cities are about 30 minutes apart on the train. I’ve always heard that Osaka is known to be an exceptionally friendly city. And I must say, we felt the love. The locals were just so kind, welcoming, and helpful. When we arrived at Osaka station, I was blown away by the scale of the architecture in the surrounding area near Grand Front Osaka, a massive entertainment complex with any and everything you can imagine. It alone could fill a whole day. Grand Front would make for a great homebase for exploring Osaka.
If you’re craving a New York style pizza and a cool, casual hang, grab a slice with the cool kids in Osaka at Henry’s Pizza. The entire staff was decked out in Dickies from a collab they did with the Fort Worth-born brand. It’s a popular spot for musicians on tour to stop in, so you never know who you may see there. Not planning more time to wander around Osaka is probably my biggest regret from the entire trip. We only got a glimpse of this world-class city. I guess we’ll just have to go back.
On one of the last nights of our trip, I walked alone late at night through light rain down quiet Kyoto streets, maneuvering back to the Ace Hotel from Good Morning Records (another great listening room to add to your list). My shoulders were relaxed. Calmness, peacefulness, social harmony, and hospitality completely washed over me. Our time in Japan was the breath of fresh air that we needed. The beautiful souls that we met there left an impression that will forever paint my first impression of Japan in memories of kindness. If you make room to listen, Japan will speak to you too. It may have something totally different to say to you, but it will speak. I promise you that. Arigato, Japan.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Morris
