Sign in
The Evolution of Ellerbe Fine Foods
It’s hard to believe nearly fifteen years have passed since Bon Appetit named Ellerbe Fine Foods one of the Top 10 New Restaurants in America. A quick review shows that 30% of the other restaurants on that list are now defunct. The Covid pandemic hit locally owned restaurants particularly hard. Those that could not remain flexible and pivot when state and government agencies released new public safety regulations simply folded.
Ellerbe hung on and powered through the lockdown and is now considered one of the “old-guard” restaurants in Fort Worth. One of the first local restaurants founded on a farm-to-table ethos, Ellerbe has remained true to its roots. Each week, you can find chef and co-owner Molly McCook surveying that week’s offerings at the farmer’s market. Few restaurants tweak their menu weekly based on what’s fresh and available, but Ellerbe does. According to front-of-house manager and co-owner Richard King, “When we started Ellerbe, we picked a concept – farm-to-table – and we have stayed loyal to that.”
Sourcing as many of their ingredients as possible from local farmers and ranchers has yielded not only long-standing partnerships with their sources but a menu that, while ever-changing, has stood the test of time. However, record inflation, rising costs across every industry, and increased labor costs are once again creating a stress test for independent restauranteurs. Fine dining and farm-to-table concepts are suffering more than their chain brethren. Their costs are already high simply because they are sourcing the best ingredients they can find instead of purchasing in bulk.
Photo courtesy of Ellerbe Fine Foods
Rising costs are now a fact of life for Ellebre and other fine dining establishments. King says, “We don’t want to change our philosophy just to affect the bottom line. I think there’s a misperception that Ellerbe is expensive, but we have always been one of the best values in Fort Worth. We have tried to hold strong on our prices, and I think we’ve done pretty well. While we have had to increase [our prices], we feel like we’re still very competitive.”
While Ellerbe has remained staunchly loyal to its farm-to-table philosophy, they have made changes that have allowed them to expand their offerings. In 2020 and 2021, they undertook a major remodel that included the installation of a full bar. Heretofore, Ellerbe had been a mostly wine and beer establishment and was particularly well known for its expertly curated wine cellar. The new bar has opened new doors for Ellerbe and its patrons. Along with the possibility of a cocktail before dinner, Ellerbe has developed a seasonal craft mocktail menu that has been a smashing success.
Photo courtesy of Ellerbe Fine Foods
“People, especially younger people, are becoming more health conscious, which is great. That has helped foster our mocktail program,” said King. “Our customers have challenged us to get creative with it, and it’s really been a lot of fun.” While outstanding wine events have been a staple at Ellerbe for years, they introduced a “summer sipping series” that is a master class in spirits education. Ellerbe brings in an expert who teaches attendees about a particular spirit. Whether it’s vodka or bourbon, scotch or gin, guests learn everything about how that spirit is made, its history, and what to mix or pair it with. The sipping series will resume in January.
Evolution is a must. The alternative is entropy and, ultimately, extinction. While Ellerbe has evolved, it has always remained true to itself. “The development is constant,” said King. “We have put a lot of money back into the restaurant by investing in strong leadership and top talent. The key has been staying loyal to our philosophy. In fact, we are more farm-to-table than we’ve ever been. Molly is often the only chef at the farmer’s market. She is dedicated to constantly bringing new ideas and fresh ingredients. Not a lot of restaurants can do that or even want to do that. We’re proud of that.”
Fifteen years is a long time for a successful restaurant to remain successful. Most don’t make it that long. What was true in 2010 when Bon Appetit made its proclamation is still true today. Through a tenacious dedication to hard work, a love of great food and wine, and a desire to provide a singular dining experience to its guests, Ellerbe Fine Foods remains one of the best restaurants in America.
Photo courtesy of Ellerbe Fine Foods
